Hypocras, Claret und andere Gewürzweine

von Katharina Woinovic

Ypocras Ménagier de Paris

http://www.gutenberg.org/files/44070/44070-h/44070-h.htm

Ypocras. Pour faire pouldre d’ypocras, prenez un quarteron de très fine canelle triée à la dent[1258], et demy quarteron de fleur de canelle fine, une once de gingembre de mesche trié fin blanc et une once de graine de paradis, un sizain[1259] de noix muguettes et de garingal ensemble, et faites tout battre ensemble. Et quant vous vouldrez faire l’ypocras, prenez demye once largement et sur le plus de ceste pouldre et deux quarterons de succre, et les meslez ensemble, et une quarte de vin à la mesure de Paris.

Et nota que la pouldre et le succre meslés ensemble, font pouldre de duc. Pour une quarte ou quarteron[1260] d’ypocras à la mesure de Bésiers, Carcassonne, ou Montpellier, prenez cinq drames de canelle fine triée et mondée, gingembre blanc trié et paré, trois drames: de giroffle, graine, macis, garingal, noix muguettes, espic nardy[1261], de tout ensemble une drame et un quart: du premier le plus et des autres en dévalant moins et moins[1262]. Soit faicte pouldre, et avec ce soit mis une livre et demi quarteron, au gros poix[1263], de succre en roche broyé, et meslé parmi les autres devant dictes espices et mis; et soit du vin et le succre mis et fondu en un plat sur{v. 2, p.249} le feu, et mis la pouldre, et meslez avec: puis mis en la chausse, et coulé tant de fois qu’il rechée tout cler vermeil. Nota que le sucre et la canelle doivent passer comme maistres [1264].

The redaction below leaves a lot of the spices unnamed,….probably because the are hard to obtain, but do not make any mention of them in the redaction!

Not added/mentioned are: cloves, nutmeg, macis, cinamon flower (yep, this IS a completely DIFFERENT spice the cinamon!), grains of paradise, spikenarde (Spicus nardi, nard. )

Redaction: The Medieval Kitchen, Redon, Sabban, Serventi
ISBN-10 : 9780226706856
University of Chicago Press; 2nd ed. Edition (2. Mai 2000)

149: Hypocras, Clarét and Hypocras Powder (p220)

To make a lot of good hypocras, take an once of cinamonde, known as long tube cinnamon, a knob of ginger, and an equal amount of galangal, pounded well together, and then take a livre of good sugar; pound this all together and moisten it with a gallon of the best Baeune wine you can get, and let it steep for an hour or two. Then strain through a clothbag several times so it will be clear. (MP 273)

Can be made with either white or red wine, should be kept refrigerated.
Redaction is for about 1litre of finished wine
4 cups (250ml = 1 l) good red wine or dry white for Claré like Sauvignon blanc)
¾ cup sugar (150g)

Hypocras powder:
1 rounded teaspoon ground cinnamon, depending on the intensity you want, take either Ceylon (mellow) or Chinese Cassia (intense)
1 rounded teaspoon ground ginger
! small piece of Galangal (asia food markets)

Grind spices if necessary, mix with sugar in a glass or stainless steel bowl. Gradually stir in wine. Let mixture stand for a few hours, stir occasionally. Strain through a cheesecloth, repaet till wine is clear. Store in corked bottle in the fridge before drinking. http://www.bl.uk/manuscripts/Viewer.aspx?ref=add_ms_5016_fs001r

1420s, Forme of Cury, a treatise on cookery by the chief cook of Richard II’s household, composed c.1390
Edition by C. B. Hieatt, Sharon A. Butler, Curye on Inglysch : English culinary manuscripts of the fourteenth century (including the Forme of cury),Published 1985

OR:

Pleyn Delit: Medieval Cookery for Modern Cooks
https://books.google.at/books?id=3_3SKiOq_B4C&pg=PT213&lpg=PT213&dq=flour+de+queynel&source=bl&ots=Mb78QGM_Sm&sig=ACfU3U0m1YD5jgEgw_xYr6JrZ_X7DnSh4w&hl=de&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiMws_Z_artAhURuRoKHe_YCc8Q6AEwAHoECAEQAg#v=onepage&q=flour%20de%20queynel&f=false

Pur fait ypocras. Troys unces de canell & iii unces gyngeuer; spykenarde de Spayn, le pays dun denerer, garyngale, clowes gylofre, poeure long, noiey mugadey, mayoioyame, cardemonii, de chescun I quarter

donce; grayne de paradys, flour de queynel, de chesun dm. Unce; de tout soit fait powdour & c. (CI IV 199)

Redaction: The Medieval Cookbook, Maggie Black, Thames and Hudson, 1992, ISBN 0500015481, 9780500015483
p 120 Piment

Redaction:
2 litres/3 ½ Pint /8 ¾ cups of red wine
175g / 6 oz white sugar
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 Tablespoon of ground ginger
1 teaspoon each: ground cloves, grated nutmeg, majoram (fresh, if possible), ground cardamom, ground black pepper and a pinch of grated galingal.

She left the Piper longum and grains of paradise out as at the time of publishing these spices seemed unobtainable to the normal cook. But does mention them and this is why she calls it a Piment and not Hypocras.

Warm wine until it just begins to steam. Add the sugar and allow to dissolve. Mix all the spices and herbs together. Stir half this mixture in the wine, taset and slowly add more until you achieve the flavoor you like (probably most of the mix). Simmer your mix very gently for 10 minutes. Strain through a fine cloth (can take quite long). Bottle when cold, corck securely. Drink within a week.

Nowadays you ARE able to get almost all spices. I use all of them in my Hypocras mix. Spikenarde is the most difficult one and I was only able to obtain essential oil (Spikenard (Nardostachys jatamansi).

http://gernot-katzers-spice-pages.com/engl/index.html

I use the proportions and method of the Maggie Black redaction an add instead of black pepper, long pepper.
And I use 1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon flower buds, grains of paradise in the spice mix. I add a few (start with ONE) drops of the spikenard oil (NOT SPEIK, Valeriana celtica (Alpine valerian, speick),THAT will taste like SOAP) to the simmering mix.

Red wine liqueur:

For making a modern, non-perishable Instand Punsch/Hypocras mix, intended as gift from the kitchen, add Rum and 96% alcohol, to bring the wine up to about 30% Vol.

Use red wine, add Hypocras spice mix and use Maggie Black method of gently simmering. Add oranges at that stage. Add Rum and 96% Aclohol when a bit colled before straining. Make a t least a month before use so flavours can mix. Be careful this is POTENT!

Proportion of Wine to Rum to 96% Alcohol
500ml wine + 250ml Rum + 125ml 96% Alcohol
for each part of wine use a ½ part of rum and ¼ part of Alcohol.

Use cutup oranges for more flavor in the wine mix, adjust parts accordingly.
Take an orange or lemon cut in slices (8 or more parts as desired) interlard with cloves, add to a mug pour in as much of the liqueur as is necessary to cover the slice and add hot water or tea. Adjust strngth and sweetness.

(Titelbild: Fabrication et dégustation de l’hypocras au Moyen Age https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ypocras.jpg)